Yokel Food: We Are the Yokna Bottoms Food Preservation Society

This article originally appeared in The Local Voice #209 (published July 31, 2014). To download a PDF of this issue, click here.

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by Betsy Chapman

Sometimes farming and rock ‘n roll collide. The Kinks’ quintessential, nostalgic 1968 album The Kinks Are the Village Green Preservation Society laments the passing of the old ways, rural traditions, a quirky pastoral England of “custard pies,” “little shops,” and “Tudor houses.”

Great album…Brought to mind the current movement of organic farming, home gardening, sustainable living, self-sufficiency, and interest in traditional foodways—our collective attempt to revive these relics of our bucolic past before they’re forgotten altogether.

I spent Sunday in the kitchen, as I often do— only this Sunday, I’d decided to overcome one of my greatest food preservation fears—canning! (And, yes, as a great lover of puns, you better believe I was singing as I canned: “We are the Yokna Bottoms Food Preservation Society…”)

Home canning might be hip right now (think hipsters trying to ironically out pickle each other), but history shows that the revival of the practice is often fueled by necessity. For example, the sale of home canning supplies surged in 2009 as economic fears became all too real. During World War II, American propaganda urged Victory Gardeners to “Can All You Can,” making self-sufficiency an act of patriotism.

Home canning

Makes good use of fresh, in-season fruits and veggies
Is economical since produce is at its cheapest when it’s in-season
Reduces waste by reusing and recycling glass jars and saving extra food from ending up in the compost bin or worse, the trash can
Connects us to food memories and tradition
Just plain tastes better than commercial canned products
Supports local growers when fruits and veggies are purchased at farmers markets
This old-fashioned form of food preservation can be quite intimidating—nobody wants botulism, right? The fear of accidentally poisoning my family gave me pause but after lots of research I decided to have a go at it. Adding to my motivation: limited freezer space and killer deals at the Midtown Market on local peaches and apples. I decided to make peach jam and apple butter. Jams, jellies, and pickles are great starter projects since these high-acid foods can be safely preserved with a simple water bath. Low acid foods are more prone to spoilage and require a more complicated method called pressure canning.
So after much fretting and over-thinking, I plunged ahead and, before I knew it, sixteen jars of glistening jewel-toned jam and spicy, sweet apple butter sat proudly on my countertop – all successfully sealed and ready to be enjoyed for months to come. Yes, I CAN!